This blog post covers the last three days of posts, two being lens whacking photos on the 23rd and 24th of December; and finally the 25th's post that is in fact a video and not a photo.
Firstly I will start with what 'Lens Whacking' is, which is a camera technique that requires you to hold the lens and camera separately from one another and not attached as normal. It requires you to have a lens with a manual aperture like the Nikkor 50mm 1.8D that I used, which I picked up for £70 on ebay in the last few weeks. What I mean by this is if your lens doesn't have an aperture ring you can't use it for lens whacking as a lens without this reverts to it's lowest aperture, typically f22, automatically when removed from the camera and therefore lets very little light through. Also you could use the Nikon lens on any camera body as they don't meet so I would have shot this on my Canon not my Nikon if i'd had it with me but I hadn't planned to shoot this so didn't have it around - i'll get to why the Canon later.
It is quick tricky to get sharp images and you need to be at certain distances to get the right angle for objects to be in focus; being far away from your subject proved difficult to get a sharp image without the camera being practically attached and even then there was mostly soft focus going on. The technique allows for light to bounce around the back of the lens as well as going directly through the lens, meaning most of the light isn't refracted truly and therefor blurs and brings in colours you don't normally expect in the form of a sort of 'mist'. Most of the blurriness is due to the lens being set to f1.8 leading to very shallow DoF and not refracting properly - you can achieve a tilt/shift effect at certain angles like I did in some shots and the two photos I posted on the 23rd and 24th. With the lens not being attached you are controlling the focus with where the lens is from the camera and not with the focus ring so it takes some getting used to but it comes naturally after a few minutes; but does lead to shaky footage as your moving both your hands to get focus as apposed to keeping the camera as still as possible like normal - the CMOS sensor doesn't help either as the choppiness is made worse with the sensor scanning down in lines.
I shot with the Nikon at first on 1080p24 as it's the largest image size this Nikon goes to and I hoped the 24p would be fine for flicker in the shots with our electricity being 50 hertz but it wasn't so I had to go to 25fps at 720p unfortunately, hence the small video size. Also the Nikon D3100 has no manual controls regarding video, all it has is a 'hold exposure' button on the back that I held during each shot to not change the exposure.
Both these reasons (the small frame size and no manual control) means I don't shoot video on my Nikon, so I would have shot this on my Canon if I'd had it with me but I didn't so I shot with the Nikon. The the quality isn't too bad though, I imagine part of this is the amount of light bleeding around and through the lens to the sensor keeping the ISO down automatically, leading to minimal grain on the image.
I edited in FCP7 on my work laptop when i could find time when juggling it with Christmas frolicking, adding a very simple grade of lower blacks, higher whites, lower mid tones, a little blue to the whites and then a 5% brown tint. Lastly I watched the video and raised or lowered the brightness of certain shots to make them all match better as some were brighter and some were darker. Added titles and the track which is by 'The Bills' and exported as ProRess 422 and transcoded this to H264 in Compressor with 7500kbs and 44100hz audio.